GardenAdvice Gardening Calendar 1st week in March 2026

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The first week of March marks the real turning point from winter into early spring. As daylight hours increase and temperatures begin to climb, the garden wakes from dormancy. This is the ideal moment to prepare soil, sow early crops, prune dormant shrubs and tidy borders — setting the foundations for a productive and beautiful growing season. Browse all GardenAdvice seasonal calendars

General Garden Tasks

• Clear and tidy borders — remove winter debris, dead stems and fallen leaves. Cutting back the remains of last year’s perennials now exposes emerging growth to more light and air, reducing the risk of fungal disease.
• Weed beds early — tackle weeds before they become established. Annual weeds pulled now, before they set seed, can save hours of work later in spring. Disturbing the soil also stimulates further weed germination, so follow up in a week or two.
• Mulch beds and borders with a generous layer (5–8 cm) of well-rotted garden compost or farmyard manure. Mulching in early March locks in residual soil moisture, suppresses emerging weeds and slowly feeds the soil as worms work it in. Avoid piling mulch directly against plant stems.
• Check plant supports and structures — inspect arches, obelisks, stakes and trellises for damage caused by winter winds. Repair or replace before new growth makes the job harder.
• Clean and sharpen garden tools — sharp blades make cleaner cuts, reducing plant stress and disease entry points. A light oil on metal surfaces will prevent rust through the busy season ahead.
• Inspect plants for pests and disease — look for overwintering aphid eggs, vine weevil grubs in pots and early signs of fungal problems. Dealing with issues at this scale is far easier than managing an established infestation.

Vegetable Garden

• Prepare vegetable beds — dig in well-rotted compost or organic matter to improve drainage and fertility. On light soils, a dressing of manure helps retain moisture; on heavy clay, compost improves aeration and workability. See the GardenAdvice Fruit and Vegetable Growing Calendar for monthly sowing and harvest guidance throughout the year.
• Direct sow hardy crops outdoors once soil temperature reaches at least 7°C. Early March sowings will need fleece protection on cold nights. Suitable crops include:
  • Carrots — sow in fine, stone-free soil; cover with fleece or mesh to deter carrot fly
  • Beetroot — soak seeds overnight to aid germination; use bolt-resistant varieties for early sowings
  • Spinach — very hardy; will germinate in cool soil and provide early harvests
  • Spring onions — sow in short rows every few weeks for a succession of pickings
  • Radish — one of the fastest crops to harvest; ideal for filling gaps between slower vegetables
  • Broad beans — if not already sown in autumn, direct sow now for early summer pods
  • Peas — sow in guttering under cover and slide into prepared trenches to avoid root disturbance
• Start seeds indoors or in a heated greenhouse for crops that need a long growing season. A propagator or warm windowsill (18–22°C) is ideal. Suitable for sowing now:
  • Tomatoes — sow thinly into modules; pot on when roots show at the base
  • Peppers and chillies — slow to germinate and grow; sowing now gives them maximum time
  • Aubergines — need consistent warmth; sow early for a good yield later in summer
  • Cucumbers — wait until late March or early April unless you have a heated greenhouse
• Plant early potatoes once soil conditions allow — aim for mid-March onwards in most parts of the UK, or when soil temperature reaches 6–7°C. If you haven’t chitted your seed potatoes yet, there is still time. Read our guide to chitting potatoes → and see how to choose the best compost for growing potatoes →

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Fruit Garden

• Prune fruit bushes such as blueberries if this was not completed in February. Blueberries require an ericaceous (acid) soil with pH 4.5–5.5; use ericaceous compost when mulching around them. Gooseberries and redcurrants can also be shaped now.
• Train blackberries and hybrid berries onto supports before new growth surges. Tie in existing canes in a fan or weave pattern. Remove any dead or damaged canes from last year to the base to make room and improve air circulation.
• Apply mulch around fruit trees and bushes — a 5–8 cm layer of well-rotted compost or woodchip kept clear of the main stem improves soil health, retains moisture and reduces competition from grass and weeds through the growing season.
• Check tree ties and stakes — winter winds can loosen stakes and cut into bark where ties have tightened with growth. Loosen any constrictive ties and replace where necessary before the tree comes into active growth.
• Feed fruit trees and bushes with a general balanced fertiliser or specialist fruit feed now that growth is imminent. Sulphate of potash applied around the root zone will support flower and fruit development in the months ahead.

Flowers & Ornamental Plants

• Divide overcrowded perennials if the soil is workable — hostas, ornamental grasses, hardy geraniums, rudbeckias and hemerocallis all benefit from regular division every three to four years. Dividing now, before much top growth appears, causes minimal disruption and allows divisions to establish quickly.
• Prune late-flowering shrubs that bloom on the current season’s growth. Cut buddleja hard back to two or three buds from the main framework. Prune coloured-stemmed dogwoods (Cornus) back to near ground level for the best stem colour next winter. Lavatera and hardy fuchsias can be cut back to healthy outward-facing growth.
• Sow hardy annual flowers now, either indoors in modules or under cover:
  • Sweet peas — sow two or three seeds per pot in deep cells or tubes; pinch out the growing tip once the first pair of true leaves appears to encourage bushy plants
  • Poppies, cornflowers, nigella and calendula — all hardy enough to be sown directly into prepared ground now; thin carefully once germinated
  • Larkspur, ammi and scabious — direct sow into well-prepared beds for late spring and early summer cut flowers
• Start dahlia tubers into growth in pots indoors now for an earlier display. Plant tubers horizontally in barely moist compost with eyes facing upward and place in a warm, bright location. Once shoots reach 7–10 cm, basal cuttings can be taken to increase your stock. Read our detailed guide to starting dahlias from tubers →
• Plant spring-flowering bulbs in the green — snowdrops in particular transplant most successfully when moved while still in leaf. Lift and divide overcrowded clumps immediately after flowering and replant straight away.
• Feed camellias and magnolias — both may be in full flower or just finishing. Apply a dedicated ericaceous fertiliser or a balanced granular feed around the root zone. Avoid overhead watering of open flowers as this can cause browning.

Lawn Care

• Rake lightly to remove moss, winter debris and matted grass. A spring tine rake works well at this stage; a powered scarifier is best saved for April or May once the grass is actively growing and can recover quickly.
• Aerate compacted areas with a garden fork pushed in to a depth of 10–15 cm and rocked gently back and forth. For larger areas, hire a mechanical aerator. Good aeration improves drainage, reduces waterlogging and encourages deeper root growth.
• Edge lawns and repair bare patches — use a half-moon edging iron to redefine borders and paths. Bare patches can be lightly forked, scattered with lawn seed and covered with a thin layer of topsoil to help germination over the coming weeks.
• Delay the first mow until the grass is actively growing and the soil surface is dry. When you do mow, set the blades to their highest setting (5–6 cm) for the first few cuts of the year. Cutting too short too early weakens the grass, encourages moss and exposes the soil to weed seeds. Read our guide to the first spring lawn cut →
• Apply a spring lawn feed once growth is underway — look for a product with a higher nitrogen content to promote green growth. Find out about GardenAdvice free lawn care treatments for members →

Greenhouse & Indoor Growing

• Clean greenhouse glass inside and out — even a thin layer of algae or grime can reduce light levels by 10–15%. Use warm water and a squeegee or specialist glass cleaner. Also clean staging and benches with a dilute disinfectant to minimise overwintered pests and disease spores.
• Sow seeds in trays or modules on a propagator or warm windowsill. Keep compost moist but not waterlogged; good drainage and adequate warmth are the two most important factors for successful germination. Label everything clearly — seedlings are notoriously difficult to identify at this stage.
• Ventilate on warm, sunny days — even in early March, a closed greenhouse can overheat on a bright afternoon. Open vents and doors during the day to reduce humidity and lower the risk of grey mould (Botrytis) developing among seedlings.
• Pot on overcrowded seedlings and cuttings taken in late winter. Check roots — if they are circling the base of the pot, it is time to move up a size. Use a good multipurpose compost with added perlite to improve drainage.
• Inspect overwintered tender plants such as pelargoniums, salvias and fuchsias for aphids, whitefly and vine weevil grubs. Treat promptly with organic sprays or remove by hand. Begin watering overwintered plants a little more regularly as light levels improve.

Wildlife Gardening

• Provide food and fresh water for birds — the nesting season is approaching and resident birds are at their most active. Keep feeders topped up with high-energy foods such as sunflower hearts, suet pellets and nyjer seed. Clean feeders regularly to prevent disease.
• Leave early-flowering weeds such as dandelions, groundsel and hairy bittercress to support early pollinators. Queen bumblebees emerging from hibernation depend on these flowers for nectar and pollen before garden plants are in full bloom.
• Install or check nesting boxes — now is the time to clean out old nesting material from last year’s boxes and put up new ones in sheltered spots facing between north-east and south-east, out of direct afternoon sun. Site boxes away from feeders to reduce disturbance.
• Create a log pile or leave a rough corner undisturbed — stag beetles, hedgehogs and amphibians use these areas for shelter in early spring. A small pond, even a half-barrel, also provides invaluable habitat for frogs, newts and aquatic invertebrates.
• Avoid using insecticides near early-flowering plants or any open flower. Even systemic treatments applied now can persist in pollen and nectar and harm visiting bees and hoverflies.

✔ Tip for the Week: Work the soil only when it is moist but not waterlogged. A simple test — squeeze a handful of soil; if it holds its shape when pressed but crumbles when prodded, conditions are ideal. Compacting wet soil now destroys the structure you are trying to build and sets back plant establishment for the whole season. If in doubt, wait a few days.

🌿 GardenAdvice Services for Spring

If you would like hands-on support this spring, GardenAdvice offers a range of services to help you make the most of the season:

• MyGardenTeam — a season-long support service pairing you with an expert GardenAdvice gardener for tailored advice, task planning and regular guidance throughout the growing year, including two free lawn care treatments per season.
• GardenAdvice Advisor Visiting Service — a professional horticultural advisor visits your garden anywhere in the UK, providing expert advice on everything from soil health and pruning to pests, planting plans and lawns, followed by a detailed written report.
• Fruit & Vegetable Growing Calendar — our comprehensive month-by-month growing guide covering sowing, planting and harvesting for a full range of edible crops.
• Weekly Gardening Calendar — also available as an Amazon Alexa briefing skill; search for GardenAdvice Weekly Calendar in your Alexa account.

Need advice right now? Email us at admin@gardenadvice.co.uk or call 01225 941023.