Support your plants this summer 

One of the most overlooked jobs in the May gardening calendar is to support your plants as they grow. Perennial plants such as phlox and other tall perennials grow at such a fast rate in late May that supporting them is important. Whilst you can cane them with canes and some string its better to place proper plant support frames over them and allow the plants to grow through them which saves time and they look natural

For Further advice contact your MyGardenTeam expert gardener

Plant supports can be used with a number of plants including penstemon, rudbeckia, phlox and other plants that are prone to fall over in heavy rain or when flowering.

Wire systems are useful for heavier fruits

• When plants begin bearing heavy fruits (for example melons or grapes in a greenhouse, or espalier fruit trees on a wall), the weight of the fruit + the vine/trunk can pull stems downward, distort growth and reduce air circulation. Using a strong wire-system gives a rigid structure to take load and keep things taught. For glasshouses you can train upward (saving space) and for outdoor fruit trained on walls/fences you keep your structure neat and tidy.
• Stainless steel or marine-grade wires resist corrosion, last much longer outdoors or in humid environments (a greenhouse is one such environment). For example, manufacturers of training-wire kits specify 316 (marine) grade stainless steel for vine wires. s3i.co.uk+2s3i.co.uk+2
• A tensioned wire will hold vines in place, maintain spacing from wall/glass (prevent them pressing on glass, restricting airflow) and ensure the fruit load is carried by the structure rather than the plant alone. For example, one supplier says: “The wires are secured with a tension bolt and supported by stainless steel frames or rods … the wire structure stays taught and strong.” alitex-greenhouses.com+1
• Training heavier-fruit plants (melons, cucumbers in the greenhouse; espalier apples/pears outdoors) along such wires also helps with harvest, pest/disease control (better air/light), and better presentation of the yield.

Here are some specific points to cover for glasshouse/heavy-fruit support:

1. Wire diameter: For heavier fruits you will want something stronger than thin garden tie wire. A 2 mm stainless steel wire (or even 3 mm) is often used in trellis kits outdoors and would be more than adequate for melon vines. For example, one kit specifies “35 m 2 mm stainless steel cable rope, M5 turnbuckle wire tensioner…” for climbing plants. Amazon
2. Fixing & tensioning: Use good fixings at each end of the run (eye bolts, lag screws, stainless anchors) plus a turnbuckle or tensioner so you can tighten the wire once installed. This ensures the wire stays firm under load and doesn’t sag with time. Ashridge Nurseries+1
3. Routing & height: In a greenhouse, you can run wires vertically from a ridge beam down near the bench or floor, so each plant has a wire to climb/attach to. Alternatively, run horizontal wires at intervals and drop vertical supports. Ensure the wires are away from the glazing by some gap so the plant/leaves/fruits don’t press on glass and cause damage or reduce light. For example, one supplier advises a minimum of ~10” (≈25 cm) between wire and glazing. alitex-greenhouses.com
4. Attachment to plants/fruit: For melons (and similar fruit), you may want to provide slings or netting under individual fruits if they hang, but the main vine can be trained using clips or ties to the wire. The wire carries the weight, the vine is simply guided.
5. Monitoring & adjustment: As fruit develop and increase in weight, watch the wires for sagging or the fixings for slipping. Re-tension if necessary. Also check that the structure (greenhouse frame, glazing bars) can handle the load being transferred through the wires.
6. Durability and maintenance: Stainless steel wire will last many years; avoid cheaper galvanised/untreated wire in humid greenhouse conditions because corrosion will weaken it. Training kits list marine-grade stainless steel wires. s3i.co.uk+1
7. When you’re training fruit outdoors, especially on walls or fences as espaliers or cordons, you can use wire systems very effectively:
   Wire gauge & system: Many guides for espaliers recommend heavy-gauge or stainless wire. For example, it’s noted that “The wiring will be stainless steel … you can buy stainless steel wire and fittings”. gardendrum.com+1 Another blog says use 14 or 16 gauge galvanised (≈ ~3 mm or so) depending on load. Ashridge Nurseries
   Spacing & placement: For an espalier against a wall: start the first wire about 40 cm above the ground, then subsequent wires every 40-45 cm (15-18 inches) up the wall. The wire should be held 5-10 cm (2-4 in) away from the wall via spacers so that air can circulate behind the fruit and leaves. Ashridge Nurseries
   Anchoring & turnbuckles: One end becomes a fixed anchor (eye bolt + wall plug), the other a tensioning end (turnbuckle or straining device) so you can keep the wire tight as growth, wind, and load act on it. Without proper tension, the structure will sag and lose shape. pomonafruits.co.uk
   Load bearing: When fruit become heavy (especially apples, pears) you need the wire to carry load. A sagging wire means branches droop, risk breakage, and can lead to poor positioning of fruit for light and air. Using stainless steel wires for fruit supports is well-recognised in viticulture/agriculture: “trellising with stainless steel cables … is particularly practical for … espalier fruit trees.” fassadengruen.de
   Maintenance & adjustment: Outdoor wires are subject to weather, thermal expansion/contraction, possible corrosion if cheaper materials are used. Tension should be checked each spring or summer before heavy fruiting. Also check the wall fixings remain secure.
   Aesthetics & longevity: Using stainless steel wire gives a neat, tidy professional look and ensures minimal rust-stains on wall façades. Many kits aimed at gardeners advertise this. Espalar USA
   
   Things to watch and common pitfalls
   Using wire that’s too thin: If the wire is under-dimensioned it will sag or even fail under fruit load; check load ratings or gauge.
   Poor fixings: Eye bolts, wall plugs, turnbuckles all must be appropriate for the load and environment (e.g., stainless steel if outdoors).
   Inadequate tensioning: A loose wire will sag, not support well, vines will drag or fruit will pull branches sideways.
   Wrong placement: For espaliers, placing wires too far apart vertically means long unsupported branches that sag or blow about; too close to the glazing or wall means overheating or restricted air.
   Ignoring maintenance: Over time wires stretch, fixings can loosen; a quick annual check pays off.
   Not considering weight/ growth: Some plants might initially be light, but once bearing heavy fruits (melons, apples) the system must take that load.
   Corrosion and environment: Especially in greenhouse (humid, moist) environment or outdoor facing a wall, corrosion can weaken wires; stainless is better investment.
   Spacing from structure: Wires too close to glass or wall may lead to plant parts pressing on glass (risk of damage/overheating) or reduced air flow.